First of all, I own this camera; it has been my main camera for over a year. Unlike some others who sometimes post in this forum, I won't just spew out the same details you can find yourself at the manufacturers website, or perhaps visiting photo.net.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The Nikon N80 is a camera which provides most of the important functionality of the higher end cameras, at a much more approachable price. Many SLRs claim fully manual controls, but force the user to do complicated moves like "push this button with one hand while spinning this dial with another while looking in the viewfinder". The N80, on the other hand, had the appropriate controls so full control of your camera is not only possible, but simple and straightforward.
USING THE N80
Right now (summer 2001), it's easy to find an N80, and probably on sale. They're a hot item, because they're a good value for someone who is (or wants to become) an active amateur photographer. Sold together with a lens (stick to Nikkor, just to be safe. Whatever you do, don't waste a cent on a crummy Quantaray lens), you'll have a nice starting off point for a new system.
You'll take the system home, put in some fresh CR123a batteries (which run about $20 a pair and will get you between 30 and 50 rolls of film, depending on how much flash you use), and attach the lens. Spin the left-hand dial to "P", and turn the camera on. Next to the viewfinder, use the little dial to set it to 3D Matrix Metering (it's the one with the circle and the square). You'll use this as opposed to spot metering (which you'll probably only use in manual mode) and center weighted metering (for "A" and "S" modes, usually). Load the film -- easy as pie.
Push the shutter. Looky! You're a photographer with a camera all your friends will think is a professional one! They have no idea how to use that thing: all those dials! Those buttons! It's so... big!
You'll get back your prints and your friends will comment that you really *are* a good photographer. Your pictures will look *so* much better than theirs, even though you didn't do anything more than they did (well, you did spend the money, but we're not factoring in capital expenses :)
The difference is mostly the lens. You've got some quality glass there, likely much brighter and faster than what you're friends have in their point-and-shoot boxes. That simple change will make a world of difference.
There's a better way, of course, and, happily, the N80 has everything you need to start taking good pictures. It clears the way for you to use the most valuable photographic tool.
Your head.
Compare the N80 to the Nikon N65, or the Canon Rebel. If you *really* want to get into photography with these, it's *possible*, but the really don't make it very easy for you. You're going to have to do finger gymnastics to perform very simple changes on your camera. Not so with the N80. Like it's higher-priced brothers, the N80 is actually made for people who actually use all the controls. Revolutionary.
FEATURES I'VE ENJOYED
First off, turn on the gridlines. They're marvelous, something which you'll have to pay extra for with other cameras. And you'll have to pull out your film and switch back and forth to change them. With the N80 it's a simple custom setting, making it easy to turn on and off in a second. Gridlines are invaluable for landscape and architecture shots, and extremely useful for general composition. John Shaw, a Very Influential nature photographer, uses gridlines (in the Nikon F5) full-time.
Depth of field preview is a good feature, though it takes a while to get used to and to learn properly. Others have mentioned it (and it's in the literature). I've found it very useful.
Spot metering is also something usually found on more expensive cameras. The metering on the N80 is very accurate, and spot metering (once you've reached that level) is a wonderful help.
Automatic Reciprocal Values was my first "gee whiz" feature of the camera. While not exclusive to the N80 (or even Nikon), it's still neat. Basically, it allows you, even in full program ("P") mode, to switch to reciprocal f/stop and shutter speeds, thus allowing you to, while completely trusting in your camera's matrix metering, play with depth of field, etc.
Basically, it works like this. Say you want to take a picture of some flowers. You point your camera at them (with the settings indicated above) and take the picture. You noticed, because you're a very observant person, that it set the shutter speed to 1/250 and the f/stop to 4. You, being a person who likes a good picture but is inherent lazy, didn't bother with manual settings or anything like that. But you also know that this particular picture would benefit from a longer depth of field, and that requires a higher f/stop number. You might not know why, or care, but you want that depth of field.
So you compose the picture again in the viewfinder, and press the shutter halfway. This focuses the camera and sets the f/stop and shutter speed (in this case) automatically, but doesn't actually take the picture. Now, you use your right thumb to spin the main dial. It's right under where you thumb will be naturally anyway. As you spin the dial, you'll see the numbers change in reciprocal values. So, after a few clicks, you'll have a shutter speed of 1/32 and the f/stop at 16. Take the picture again. That's it -- you've just created a custom image, one which would have never been possible with a point-and-shoot. It's a very gentle way to get into custom photography.
Built in flash is useful, and not just for beginners and point-and-shoot photographers. A fill flash is a useful tool for all photographers, and having one built onto the camera is extremely handy. It's small and wimpy and can't be angled to bounce off the ceiling for snapshots of cousin Flora's birthday, but it'll do a swell job of removing the shadows under little Bobby's nose and chin when you're taking his picture at swimming lessons. You won't rely on it for professional shots, but you'll be glad that it's always just a button away. (Contrast that with the N90s, where, even for simple shapshots you'll have to lug out and connect a heavy external flash. A good strobe is a virtue, true, but so it a small, light and extremely portable one).
OTHER FEATURE NOTES
The auto focus has been a complaint in a number of these epinions, which makes me wonder if they mostly just copy each other. Do they own the camera? Have they read the manuals, or just the marketing materials? Have they taken it out of the store? The auto focus is in the lens, not the camera body. If it's too loud, buy a specialty lens that has quieter focusing.
I've found the auto focus to be quite good, and the paddle-wheel focus select on the camera back is simple, easy, and intuitive. It allows me to change not only the focus location, but the metering location as well (if I'm spotmetering). This is amazingly helpful. Once you try it, you'll never go back.
The viewfinder isn't nearly as good as on higher-end Nikon cameras. I guess they had to save something for the pros. As a eyeglass wearer, this is somewhat of an issue, but not one I can't work around. It's less convenient, not inconvenient.
The manuals are pretty good for learning to use the camera, but awful for teaching photography. I was a newbie a year ago, and spent some money to buy some other photography books. These, along with lots of practice, have allowed me to take increasingly better and better pictures and to confidently take more control over my photos. I have since sold a number of images I've taken with this camera, and have a whole collection of "WOW!" images, much to my own delight (as well as my wife and family).
THINGS TO BE IMPROVED UPON
My biggest gripe is that the N80s has never been available with a full US warranty. The N80s (grey market) imprints exposure data between frames, so it does not show up in the final print. No taking notes about what shutter speed or f/stop: that's taken care of for you. Perhaps someday Nikon will offer a custom back for this camera which will allow me to upgrade my plain-vanilla N80.
No metering on manual lenses has basically restricted me to modern, more pricey lenses. While not without good reason, I wish I could use some cheap older glass and still be able to use the in-camera metering. Not like Nikkon even manufactures these lenses anymore, but I can't even use extension tubes (not Nikon ones, at least). Sigh. For most photographers, that's not a concern at all -- nor should it be. On the upside, Nikon's cool new Vibration Reduction (VR) lenses will work with the N80, thus allowing you (if you believe the marketing hype) an additional 3 stops slower shutter speed with handheld photos, while maintaining sharpness. Cool. The N90 can't do that, even at a 50% higher price point.
It's small, not tiny, but small. Yeah, I have big hands, but after a while they feel cramped holding the N80. It's not bad, and sooner or later I'll buy the attachment. That has the added bonus of using standard AA alkaline batteries, as well. (If you really want to read about a small camera, read my review of the Canon PowerShot S100 Digital Elph -- *that's* tiny.)
Finally, while the camera has all the necessary controls in easy and logical placement, the custom settings are cryptic at best. Who will remember that the setting for turning on and off the gridlines is 4-0? It would have made a world of sense if Nikon would have included a handy-dandy reference card, which I could carry in my case to remind me of these 18 custom settings. Fortunately, it's available for free online at http://www.nikonians.com (which, by the way, has a very nice N80 user's forum).
A SUGGESTED BEGINNERS KIT
I think this review probably seems somewhat disjointed, somewhat talking to a photographic newbie, and partly talking to a more advanced user. I suppose it's because I bought this camera as a newbie (and experienced those frustrations), and have since progressed to become considerably more advanced.
I think the N80 is an ideal camera for those in my situation. After watching friends go through similar processes (or attempt to) on other cameras (notably the Nikon N65 and the Canon Rebel), I can see clear and obvious benefits to the N80. I would be very, very hesitant to recommend anyone buy either of those less-advanced cameras. You do not want to buy a bike with training wheels, unless you're sure you can remove them when you're ready.
The N80 provides both training wheels as well as a full grown Daddy bike. There's still room to grow, but it will come because you want *refined* features, not because it's missing whole categories of functionality.
For beginners, I'd suggest a basic setup which allows for Real Photography. This will include a camera, lens, flash, and tripod.
* Obviously, the N80 is a swell camera
* A Nikkor 28-80 or (better) 28-105 zoom lens will take lots of pretty pictures, and has nice, sharp optics. Can't go wrong with these Nikkors. As I mentioned above, be wary of third party versions of these lenses.
* I have the SB-28 speedlight flash. A very nice unit, it's the top of the Nikon line. The manual for the flash was bigger than the one for the camera.
* A tripod is a must. I really like my Bogen/Manfrotto legs and head, but any tripod is better than none. Eventually, you'll buy a good one, but even a cheap tripod will be more stable than hand held.
Additionally, you'll want filters and more lenses and camera bags and a cable release and reflectors and.... but your wife (or husband) will put you on a budget and you'll pine away. Probably better this way, though, because I learn to really use what I've got before I buy something new.
For more advanced photographers, looking for a new body: obviously, you've already selected Nikon, or else you wouldn't buy one. The N80 has everything you need to take professional photos, and it's cheap. It's an ideal secondary body.
Recommended:
Yes
Amount Paid (US$): 450